Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. For example, rodent or squirrels can damage wood and wiring; roaches can cause odor.

Partial Termite Treatments include a one year renewable warranty. Customers are given the option to renew their warranty on an annual basis for a small fee that covers inspection of the structure. If a new termite problem is found while the structure is under warranty, necessary treatment will be done at no cost to the customer. Warranty is transferrable in the event that the structure is sold. [Only pre-slab treatments are considered “full” treatments.] Preconstruction termite treatments include a five year optional renewable warranty.

If you have termites, treatment is essential for elimination.

Whether you have just moved in to a new home or have been settled in one for years, it is important to keep up with termite prevention. Termites are one of the few insect colonies to eat continuously; a typical single termite colony can completely consume 2.3 linear feet of 2×4 pine in a single year. Where there is one termite colony there are usually others, clustered together in pursuit of food.

A termite colony consists of anywhere from 350,000 to well over a million workers, soldiers, and swarmers (termites with wings). A single termite queen can lay thousands of eggs per day and live between 30 and 50 years. That means a queen can recoup her losses and repopulate her colony even after tremendous devastation. The best way to fight this foe is to prevent them from ever touching your home.

There are a few things that homeowners can do to prevent termites from invading their homes. The first thing to do is make sure that your rain gutters are clear of any debris. The downspouts should carry water away from the house. The downspouts should be three or more feet out. All outside wood needs to be away from the home. If you use mulch in planters around the home, you will attract termites. Use alternatives such as rocks or any material that does not contain any wood compose. These two things are the most important things to remember for preventing termites. If you have damp areas around the foundation of the home and wood is present, you need to check these areas often. It may be wise to find a solution to the dampness problem to keep termites away from this area. Pretreated woods may repel termites, but this is only good as long as the wood stays treated and in good condition. Pest control prevention is better than trying to get rid of the pest once it has invaded your home. Look around the exterior of your home for potential areas that a termite might breed and enter the home.

How to prevent Termites from infesting your home:

1. Identify and fix all water leaks in your home, both internal and external. As mentioned above, termites need water, and it does not matter where they get it. If the water source comes from your home it means they do not have to work as hard. Eliminating their water source removes one of the three requirements for survival.
2. Remove any brush or heavy growth from around your home. Vegetation can create areas of intense moisture, which is necessary for colony survival. Termites like it wet, so try and disappoint them as much as possible.
3. Eliminate any standing or pooling water from around your home.
4. Store all excess building materials and firewood away from the house. Remember that wood is their primary food source. Scrap wood touching the ground is an open invitation to hungry termites. If your property is not large enough for wood storage away from the house, create barriers beneath the wood to prevent direct access to the termites. Thick concrete slabs or heavy duty metal stands can be used to raise the wood off of the ground.
5. Use treated lumber for any wooden structures that will have direct contact with the ground. The chemicals in treated lumber do not guarantee that termites will not invade the wood, but they can act as a deterrent for decks and patios made out of treated lumber. Home improvement centers now offer concrete supports that raise the wooden support beams for decks and patios off of the ground. This would be a great way to avoid wood to ground contact.
6. Avoid using mulch near your home. Mulch provides two things to hungry termites: a food source and a water source. The qualities of mulch that make it attractive for use in the garden are the very qualities that attract termites. If mulch is placed near the exterior of your home, it is only a small step for a colony to move into your walls. As an alternative to wood mulch, try using one of the newer rubber mulches now available at your local home improvement center. They have the look of mulch and the benefits of mulch without providing the risks.
7. Never bury waste lumber or wood scraps in your yard. It acts as a magnet to termites and directs them to your property.
8. Remove any dead trees, old stumps, or roots in your yard. As these items decay, they attract termites to the area by providing a food source. When the food is gone, the termite colony will look for new sources of food. This includes your house.
9. Seal any cracks or holes within the foundation of your home. This will help prevent easy access for wandering termites.
10. Keep all gutters and waterlines clean of debris. Clogged gutters and waterlines leak, creating pools of water close to the house.
11. Make sure your home is properly ventilated, including your attic and internal crawl space areas. Adequate airflow prevents the buildup of moisture needed by termite colonies.
12. Periodically, get your home inspected for termite damage. A once-a-year inspection can save your home with early detection. If termites are not found in the home, the trained pest control specialists can at least offer recommendations to help you prevent an invasion. They may catch something you missed.

Certain obstructions will either hinder, limit or prevent placement of the termiticide into the soil where it needs to be placed to be effective and certain factors will adversely influence or disrupt the termiticide soil barrier following treatment.
Obstructions which hinder, limit, or prevent placement of termiticide into soil where it needs to be placed to be effective and factors which disrupt or adversely affect termite soil barriers (not in any particular order):
1) Acts of Nature (earthquakes, floods, drought and the cracking open of soil due to evaporation, freezing/thawing conditions, erosion, and high or fluctuating water table in treated soil areas;
2) Placing new dirt or mulch over treated soil;
3) Placing wood (fire wood or other) adjacent a treated structure;
4) Placing storage or debris adjacent a treated structure;
5) Structural water problems can support live termite infestation within a building, even when the soil barrier is effective;
6) Digging and/or removal or addition of plants in treated soil (includes, but is not limited to, regrading and planting following pre-construction and or existing construction soil treatment);
7) Plant root growth;
8) Adding new construction over and/or beyond treated soil;
8) Adding new construction over and/or beyond treated soil;
10) Sprinkler systems;
11) Vegetative obstructions;
12) Construction obstructions (styrofoam between foundation and soil, wood forming boards left in ground, and any debris in/under backfill);
13) Structural obstructions;
14) Soil obstructions (clay and/or gumbo, rocks, roots, backfill debris, pipes, and etc.);
15) Storage obstructions;
16) Microorganisms in the soil;
17) High organic content in soil;
18) Leaching,
19) Soil texture: Certain termiticides work better in certain soil textures than others, and;
20) The natural degradation of the termiticide.

TAKE NOTE: The treating company has no control over any of the above listed twenty (20) factors which either obstruct treatment (placement of termite into the soil where it needs to be placed to provide effective control) or disrupt or otherwise adversely affect existing soil barriers. Now you know why all termite soil treatments are limited as to extent and effectiveness. Due to the aforementioned factors, there is no such thing as a perfect termite soil treatment.

Termite treatments typically will take no more than a day. How long it takes for the termites to be eliminated depends on the location, and extent of damage. After a thorough inspection, we should be able to tell you what we will use to get rid of the termites and how long it will take.

The amount varies considerably, based on the construction of your home, and difficulty of treatment. Typically, a foundation treatment estimate is based on the number of linear feet around the perimeter of the house. Because a slab foundation is the least accessible for treatment, the cost of concrete foundation termite treatment typically is higher than the cost of treatment for a similarly sized house with a crawlspace construction. Low access crawl space treatments will usually be a little higher.

The National Pest Management Association (NPMA) and the entire industry are committed to providing highly effective treatment options for all pest issues. The most effective type of treatment depends upon the location and construction of the home or building. A trained and licensed pest control operator can assess each infestation separately and recommend a rigorous treatment plan that will effectively control the termite population. A trained and licensed pest control operator is the best person to make a recommendation for each particular property.

FULL TREATMENT (aka Pretreatment): The homeowner can only receive a “full treatment” before the house is built. Effective pre-construction treatment for subterranean termite prevention requires the establishment of complete vertical and horizontal approved physical or chemical barriers between wood in the structure and the termite colonies in the soil, or a “horizontal chemical barrier” that is created by using a low pressure spray after the final grading is complete and prior to pouring the slab or footings.

The licensed pest technician is bound by the instructions on the chemical label that they use. The Texas Structural Pest Control Board considers these instructions as law. Termiticide labels have specific directions about the product’s use. Pest control companies must follow these directions and Structural Pest Control Board regulations including 599.3 (a) and (b). Please go the web site located at www.spcb.state.tx.us for more information.

SPOT TREATMENT: Any treatment which concerns a limited defined area less than ten (10) linear feet or ten square feet that is intended to protect a specific location or “”spot.”” Often there are adjacent areas susceptible to termite infestations which are not treated.

PARTIAL TREATMENT: This technique allows a wide variety of treatment strategies but is more involved than a spot treatment. Example: Treatment of some or all of the perimeter, bath traps, expansion joints and stress cracks.

Pier and Beam: Generally defined as the treatment of the outer perimeter including porches, patios and treatment of the attached garage. In the crawl space, treatment would include any soil to structure contacts as well as removal of any wood debris on the ground. Slab construction: Generally defined as treatment of the perimeter all known slab penetrations, and any known expansion joints or stress cracks.

There are three types of Termite Treatments:
(1) Pretreat;
(2) Partial;
(3) Spot.

Termites primarily feed on wood, but also damage paper, books, insulation, and even swimming pool liners and filtration systems. Termites can injure living trees and shrubs, but more often are a secondary invader of woody plants already in decline. While buildings may become infested at any time, termites are of particular importance when buying or selling a home since a termite inspection/infestation report is normally a condition of sale. Besides the monetary impact, thousands of winged termites emerging inside one’s home are an emotionally trying experience — not to mention the thought of termites silently feasting on one’s largest investment. Termite-damaged wood is usually hollowed out along the grain, with bits of dried mud or soil lining the feeding galleries. Wood damaged by moisture or other types of insects (e.g., carpenter ants) will not have this appearance. Occasionally termites bore tiny holes through plaster or drywall, accompanied by bits of soil around the margin. Rippled or sunken traces behind wall coverings can also be indicative of termites tunneling underneath. Oftentimes there will be no visible indication that the home is infested. Termites are cryptic creatures and infestations can go undetected for years, hidden behind walls, floor coverings, insulation, and other obstructions. Termite feeding and damage can even progress undetected in wood that is exposed because the outer surface is usually left intact.

Depending on your geographical location, termite swarms should be visible in the early spring. Termite swarms can be confused with flying ants. Telltale signs of termite infestation include soft wood in the home, mud tubes in the interior or exterior of your home (often near the foundation), and darkening or blistering of wood structures.

Carpenter ants differ from termites by having dark-colored bodies, narrow waists, elbowed (bent) antennae, and if present, hind wings shorter than front wings. Carpenter ants are very common and are frequently seen in the open. Termites are light-colored, have no waist constriction, have straight antennae and, if present, wings are of equal length. Normally workers are black or red and black in color and range in size from 3/8 to 1/2 inch. Winged queen ants may be as large as one inch. However, size is not a reliable characteristic to identify carpenter ants. Termites are less common. They avoid light and are rarely seen outside of their colony.

Wood Destroying Insects are those insects that cause damage to a structure. In Texas, the three primary wood destroying insects are:
• Carpenter Bees
• Termites
• Carpenter Ants

Carpenter ants tend to invade homes in Texas throughout the year. They are usually noticed in the spring and summer, when winged reproductive ants begin looking for a suitable nesting site in a swarming flight.

Warning Signs That You May Have Carpenter Ants Include:
• Sawdust [Also Known as “Fress”] – Wood shavings, dead ants and old ant cocoons are often piled up outside of the nest.
• Windows – Small slit-like openings that carpenter ants cut into damaged wood.
• Swarmers – The winged reproductive that usually but not always swarm in the spring. Look for them trapped in spider webs, on window ledges, or in light fixtures. They are good clues to nest location.
• Workers – Solitary ants wandering aimlessly, most active at night. You may not see any activity during normal working hours. If you do it does not mean the nest is nearby. Worker ants can travel the length of a football field looking for food.
• Clicking – Rustling or clicking sounds can sometimes be heard coming from carpenter ant nests. If you identify potential nest site, try tapping against it with your hand or a tool. You may get a response, clicking of alarmed ants. Get close enough and you can actually hear the colony chewing through wood inside your walls.
• Water Damage – When you find the leak, the carpenter ants are usually there. Carpenter ant damaged wood contains galleries that feel sandpapered very smooth and clean.

Carpenter Ants are typically more visible at night because they are nocturnal.

To prevent Carpenter Ant problems:
(1) Eliminate high moisture conditions that are attractive to them.
(2) Replace any moisture-damaged wood.
(3) Be careful that wood or lumber that is stored in a garage or near the house is kept dry and, if possible, elevated to allow air circulation.
(4) Store firewood as far away from buildings as possible.
(5) Remove tree and shrub stumps and roots.
(6) Trim branches that overhang the home, buildings or electrical wiring to avoid giving carpenter ants easy access.
(7) When possible, remove wood that contains carpenter ant nests, and destroy the colony by having a professional treatment done.

Carpenter Ants are usually found outdoors. Often carpenter ant nests found indoors are satellite nests that can be traced back to a parent colony outdoors in trees, stumps, roots, fence posts, landscape timbers, and other wood structures.

Carpenter ants are one of nature’s most aggressive wood destroyers. Similar to termites, carpenter ants damage wood. Unlike termites however, carpenter ants do not eat wood. Carpenter ants only bore into wood to establish and/or enlarge their nest. They can do lots of damage to wood. They are able to excavate wood and cause moderate amounts of localized damage. The amount of damage carpenter ants cause is usually far less in comparison to that of subterranean termites; however, if carpenter ant nests are left untreated and undisturbed, the sheer numbers of ants can be enormous and the resulting damage caused by “mining” of wood to increase the nest can be substantial. Carpenter ants cause damages to wood primarily due to nest construction. In other words, damages are only a result of their nest building efforts. As a general rule, carpenter ants do not damage wood as heavily as subterranean termites, but given enough time and a large enough nest, damages can be severe.

Carpenter ant damage can be severe & expensive. Carpenter ants damage wood by excavating and creating galleries and tunnels. These areas are clean, i.e. they do not contain sawdust or other debris, and are smooth, with a well sanded appearance. The damage to wood structures is variable. The longer a colony is present in a structure, the greater the damage that can be done.

•Life Stages: Eggs hatch into nymphs. Newly hatched nymphs are tiny—about 1/16th of an inch.
•Nymphs—which look like small adults—become adults in 5 weeks. They go through 5 molts to reach adult size—meaning they shed their old, smaller skin 5 times. They must feed before each molt.
•Females can produce 5-7 eggs per week, laying up to 500 in a lifetime.
•Bed bugs grow fastest and lay most eggs at about 80°F.
•They feed only on blood or “blood meal”.
•They feed when people are sleeping or sitting quietly, often when it’s dark.
•They seek shelter in cracks and crevices when not feeding.
•They poop out “blood spots.” Spots look like dots made by a fine felt-tipped marker. You’d see them near where they fed and near their hideouts.
•Adults can live over a year without a meal.
•Adults, nymphs and eggs can survive sustained heat and cold if given time to adjust.
•Can be found in the cleanest of clean places. But clutter makes them harder to get rid of.
•They have no “grooming behavior”—meaning that insecticides meant to be swallowed by roaches and flies won’t work on bed bugs.

Bed bugs feed on the blood of human beings (aka. “blood meal”) but can suck blood from other animals as well. Birds and mice are the most common animals. Bed bugs most often feed at nighttime when people are asleep. When they feed, they inject a salivary secretion into the wound to prevent coagulation. The fluid can cause a person’s skin to itch and even become swollen. Scratching can cause sores which often become infected. Bed bugs aren’t known to transmit disease. And some people don’t even get marks when bit. But scratching bites can lead to a secondary infection. Resist the urge to scratch. People with health problems and children are more at risk for infection because their immune systems are compromised or they can’t stop scratching.

A bed bug has 6 legs. Its antennae point forward and are about half as long as the body—not longer. Its head is broadly attached to its body and it has no wings. Color: A “drop of blood with legs” is probably a recently fed bed bug. It will be red, plump, and oval. After it digests its meal, it’ll be mahogany-colored, round, and flat. Unfed nymphs are tan. Eggs are oval, white, and stick to whatever they’re laid on. Size: You can see the adults—they’re about 1/4” long. Eggs and just-hatched nymphs are tiny: 1/16” (1mm) long—the size of the “R” in “LIBERTY” on a penny. They’ll plump up after feeding—just like a mosquito.

(1) Wash all pet bedding (including items your pet lays or sleeps on) in hot, soapy water.
(2) While washing potentially flea infested items, vacuum. When the vacuum bag is full, seal it in a plastic trash bag and put it in a covered trash container, preferably outside. Otherwise, they can crawl out.

Here are some spots to concentrate on when vacuuming:
– Areas that don’t get much exposure to sunlight (fleas like humid and cool spots)
– Upholstered furniture (lift up those couch cushions)
– Crevices around baseboards and cabinets (that’s where the eggs and larvae are probably hiding)

(3) Treat your pets for fleas. If possible, make sure to use a shampoo or spray that has an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) in it to prevent fleas from continuing to breed.
Prune foliage and trim grass to expose flea larvae to sunlight.
(4) Mow the lawn regularly.

Benefits of Tamper Resistant Bait Boxes:
* Protects businesses against litigation, lost profits and damaged reputation.
* Ensures your rodent control complies with Health & Safety regulations.
* Keeps staff, customers and members of the public safe from inadvertent harm.

If you have a problem with rats or mice and want to get rid of these rodents without causing harm to anything else, we recommend utilizing our bait box program. The bait box program includes placement of bait boxes around the perimeter of the structure(s) and/or inside the structure, regular monitoring and maintenance of onsite bait boxes. These tamper resistant bait boxes are designed to encourage rats and mice to enter and feed on the bait, but not allow inquisitive pets or children access. The bait boxes are plastic and are suitable for internal and external locations.

Some moisture is usually good for treatments. Treatments are generally resistant to moisture upon drying.

To prepare for a cockroach treatment, do the following:
(1) Pick up clutter and clean house.
(2) Empty your trash and have all the dishes washed, out of the sink, and out of the dishwasher. For cockroach treatments you should be out of the house while we are treating.

Most areas of Central and West Texas have excellent weather for insects. They are active virtually year round. Termites are found year round in our service areas. Cockroaches, silverfish, and spiders are commonly found in homes all year. Ants such as pharaoh ants, little black ants, and other ants can be seen year round in homes. Flies, gnats, and other flying insects are also common in homes all year. It is important to note that different weather patterns can yield very different pest problems. In some years a certain pest can be at nearly epidemic populations year round, in others we may see them for only a few short weeks. We all know that our trees and shrubs use the winter months to strengthen and develop their root systems in order to support vigorous growth when the weather warms in the spring. Pest populations work in a very similar manner. Overwintering populations that are not addressed by a regular service program during the cooler months can lead to much more serious pest problems the following spring. Just because we are not seeing these pests with the same regularity as during warmer months, does not mean that they are gone. Their populations are growing and developing and will re-appear with even more vigor in the spring.

Insects are less active in the winter, except on warm days; however many pests can still be active in and around your home. Many will move into or under your home to keep warm during the cooler months. Rodents are especially problematic due to colder temperatures outside and warm, cozy homes inside. Yellow jackets (paper wasp) are very common in the fall and winter months. Cockroaches are always a challenge because of our climate-controlled homes as well as structure-infesting ants.

Fall may see a dramatic change in temperatures, which slows many insects down. Others are stimulated by this change and will become much more active. Termites are very active this time of the year and following the summer rains it is not unusual to see their continued activity.

Summer is also a very active time of year for insects. Depending on the weather and temperature, Bees continue to swarm well into the summer months. Ants and crickets will also increase their activity this time of year. Cockroaches are seen more frequently indoors during summer because they are searching out more favorable conditions such as moisture and lower temperatures. Isopods (pill bugs) continue to be active in the soil around homes as well as earwigs, millipedes, centipedes, and springtails. Scorpions are also commonly found around homes, especially in new development areas and in homes located in foothill like surroundings.

Spring is when most insects begin to be most active. Fire ants, Isopods (pill bugs), and spiders are very common around homes during the spring. Wasps are also very common in eaves and doorways. Structure infesting ants such as little black ants, pharaoh ants (sugar ants), crazy ants, and carpenter ants will be seem with much more frequency. Rodents also will breed more actively during this time of year. Bees will become much more active this time of year. Bee swarms are more common as many shrubs and flowers coming into bloom.

A professional pest control technician who has been appropriately trained will provide you with the best and most environmentally sound method for eradicating unwanted pests from your home. We have years of experience servicing pest control needs in the Brown & Surrounding County area by establishing Peace of Mind and Trust with our customers and community.

Usually pests enter a home for shelter, food, and/or water.
The following tips may help keep your home free of pests:
(1) Keep food crumbs off the counters and clean shelves regularly.
(2) Keep snack bags clipped shut or use Ziploc bags. Store foods such as cereal, flour, and pet food in sealed containers.
(3) Promptly wipe up messes & spills on countertops and floors.
(4) Keep garbage in sealed containers and dispose of your trash regularly.
(5) Sweep the floor.
(6) Mop up any sugary stains.
(7) Keep dishes cleaned and put away.
(8) Keep fruit in the refrigerator or a sealed container. Not only can food cause a problem – so can water. You may notice that many insects and pests seem to be around the kitchen sink or around the bathtub. This is because there is a water source in these areas.
(9) Check under sinks and do what you can to reduce any leaky or dripping faucets and pipes. If you have mold and mildew in your home or office crawl space, it’s a symptom of an excess moisture problem.
(10) Check for crumbs and wrappers that may get hidden under sofa cushions or bedspreads.
(11) Clean out your fridge and freezer on a regular basis.
(12) Declutter: Piles of papers and other objects strewn about your business/home/apartment can provide food or shelter for pests, such as cockroaches. Many insects thrive in wet environments, so keeping your business/home/apartment dry helps keep these cockroaches away. Get leaky faucets or broken pipes fixed promptly.
(13) Locate and seal any cracks and holes outside your home. Make sure vents are screened and gaps around windows and doors are sealed.
(14) Check around the perimeter of your home for leaky faucets and anything that allows moisture to pool around the base of your home.
(15) Eliminate debris from gutters.
(16) Trim tree branches and shrubbery from around your home.
(17) Store firewood and other wood at least 20 feet away from your home.

General Pests is a category of pests that are common in Central Texas. These include, but are not necessarily limited to, the following: Spiders, Crickets, Pill Bugs, Most Types of Ants, Most Types of Roaches, Wasps, Scorpions, etc.

The price of the service is dependent upon the following:
(1) Size of the Home/Business;
(2) Type of Pest/Rodent/Other Problem.

The pesticides we use for general pest control will not harm you or your family if you are in the home while we are treating. It is even ok if you are a pregnant. The only thing we ask is that you, your children and your pets do not come in contact with the insecticide while it is wet. If you do, do not panic. Just rinse items or areas of contact immediately with plenty of water or a slight irritation may occur. However, if you have concerns about kids, pets, or yourself, you may want to leave for 2 to 3 hours.

Sometimes it is necessary to treat the inside of your home. We try to minimize any pesticide contact with the inside living area. However, when we need to make an application, we make sure that any treatment is followed according to EPA label standards and an appropriate entry time is scheduled with our customers.

Service time is dependent upon the following:
(1) Size of the Home/Structure;
(2) Additional Areas Requiring Treatment;
(3) Extent of the Problem; and
(4) How often the service is performed.

Over the years of providing quality pest control services we have found that our customers want more than just to call us once they have a current pest infestation. Our clients Trust Us to provide proactive pest control services to protect their families, their homes and their investments. We provide our regular customers with annual cost savings and a year round warranty as we target the varying pests they experience throughout the year.

Following the recommended steps above may improve the effectiveness of the service. We also recommend that you not do any mopping for a few days following the service.

To prepare for your General Pest Service, you can:
(1) Pick up over house;
(2) Pick up any pet food / water containers; and
(3) Do any sweeping / mopping that you need to do prior to your service.
You do not need to move any furniture as the technicians will do so as needed.

Yes. We provide employees with upfront training and contingency education courses.

Yes. References are available upon request.

Yes. Our technicians are tested and licensed through the Texas Pest Control Association (TPCA) – Structural Pest Control Board (SPCS).

Andy’s Pest Troopers, Inc. holds all the industry standard insurances, bonds and licenses.

Yes. We do background checks and drug tests.

Andy’s Pest Troopers, Inc. has been in business since January of 2003.

Yes.

Yes. Andy’s Pest Troopers, Inc. is a member of the NPMA.

All professional pest control products have been registered for use by the EPA. When they are applied according to the labeled instructions by technicians who have been trained and licensed to use them, they pose very minimal or virtually no risk to people or pets.

Our business has relied largely on referrals from local customers for years. We truly appreciate referrals and welcome the opportunity to provide new customers with the best possible service to help solve their pest problems.

No. The chemicals / products we use will not stain or discolor your carpet, flooring or walls. Water spotting may occur on dark surfaces, but we use products that won’t stain or spot.

No. Each commercial service is treated according to the unique problems it has. We work to provide thorough, efficient services that are tailored to each customer’s needs.

Yes. Typically at no additional charge to customer.

We provide pest siting logs / log books to help maintain your service efficiently and effectively.

Yes.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is the basic premise of pest control. IPM aims to avoid pesticide use and utilizes regular monitoring to determine if and when intervention is needed and uses physical, mechanical, cultural, biological and educational tactics to keep pest numbers low enough to prevent unacceptable damage or annoyance. Its goal is not to reduce or eliminate the use of pesticides. The goal of IPM is to control pests; by using the best control methods after carefully considering each method’s safety, effectiveness, cost, and effect on non-target organisms and the environment.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is required.

We recommend the service that best meets the needs of the customer / location. A service professional can visit with you to help you determine which service would be most appropriate and effective.

We recommend the service that best meets the needs of the customer / location. A service professional can visit with you to help you determine which service would be most appropriate and effective.

We recommend the service that best meets the needs of the customer / location. A service professional can visit with you to help you determine which service would be most appropriate and effective.

The pesticides we use are the best in the industry. They have all been approved for use in residences, commercial offices, restaurants, hospitals and even supermarkets. More important than what we use is how we use the products we have. We always read and follow the product labels so you and your family are kept safe. All of our service professionals have been trained on the proper application of materials to ensure a safe and healthy environment for your family and pets. All pesticides/chemicals used by Andy’s Pest Troopers, Inc. are registered with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).